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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.